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Cyprus Internet Directory [ Wines with George Kassianos ]

Wines with George Kassianos

Wines of summer

Chill out with a cold glass of wine, white, red or ros?

During summer many people look at me in bewilderment when I order a bottle of wine. Especially when I order a dry red and ask for it to be served slightly chilled. Many people still do not realise there are some wonderful wines out there to cool us down in the summer months.

We eat - and drink – differently in summer. When the temperature outside is nudging 40°C, who could even contemplate uncorking a bottle of aged Cabernet Sauvignon at a picnic? Save them for a special dinner in winter.

Wines of summer should be young, uncomplicated and generally inexpensive. Summer calls for wines that are not overwhelmingly tannic or oaky, that are often (though not always) slightly lower in alcohol, and even the reds may be slightly chilled.

We live differently in summer, too, our minds recalibrated to mellow. In summer the pace should be slower and entertaining more relaxed. So if you dine out with friends, or host lunch, barbecue or dinner chez vous, you can lighten up with wines from, quite literally, all over the world. Just make your selection from the wines below, recommended by George Hadjikyriakos of Spectus.

Mosel, Germany

The Dr Loosen Estate has been in the same family for over 200 years. When Ernst Loosen assumed ownership in 1988, he realised that with ungrafted vines averaging 60 years old in some of Germany’s best-rated vineyards, he had the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. Before taking over his family estate, Loosen made a pilgrimage to some of the most respected wineries in the world. It was his belief that before he could make world-class wines, he first had to understand what makes a wine truly great. Through this voyage of discovery, Ernst developed the foundation for his own winemaking style - a style that is rooted in the authentic expression of the soil, the climate and the vines themselves.

2007 Dr Loosen Riesling Kabinett Bernkasteler Lay, Mosel, abv 7.5%

The ‘Slate of Bernkastel’ is situated between the Dr Loosen estate and the village of Bernkastel. As the name indicates, the soil is predominantly slate, but it is heavier and deeper than in neighboring villages. Kabinett is the lightest and most delicate style, from ripe grapes picked early in the harvest. A pale hue, just the faintest tinge of yellow green; the wine at first doesn’t show a great deal of expression on the nose, with some quiet and stony fruit the most it is giving. But wait – the mineral and lime character pops up soon and some floral characters are revealed. The palate has a fresh, herby style, with a very clean, fleshy, impressive presence. The substance carries through to the finish. Appealing and easy to drink with sushi or shashimi, chicken teriyaki, Pad Thai or tuna pan seared, grilled halibut, chicken in butter cream sauce. €18

2007 Dr Loosen Riesling Sp?tlese, ?rziger W?rzgarten, Bernkastel, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, abv 7.5%

Blazing red and insanely steep, the ?rziger W?rzgarten (the spice garden of ?rzig) vineyard fills the picturesque amphitheatre formed by this dramatic bend in the Rhein river. It produces exciting, exotic, spicy aromas and mesmerising earthiness. Sp?tlese is the second level of dryness and wines have a richer style than the riper grapes, harvested later than Kabinett.

This wine has a fresh, savoury, sappy character. There is fruit complexity on the nose, with notes of lychee alongside the lime. The nose is salty-mineraly and little else is showing here. It is softly textured, open and accessible on the palate, broad and flattering with a gentle, rather pillowy, character. It is nicely defined with fresh acidity and tingling zip that build subtly through the mid-palate and sits in perfect harmony with the wealth of rich, resinous but very well defined fruit that exists here. On the finish, little wave after little wave of the minerally fruit flavour, with a rich, lingering, perfumed presence. Strictly for spicy Asian/fusion cuisine.

Alsace, France

The firm of Dopff and Irion was established when Rene Dopff joined fortunes with the widowed Madame Irion. Rene was the first to have faith in the concept of terroir, the restructuring of the vineyard by dividing it into five domains or estates and then planting each one with the most suitable grape. The vineyards are located near Riquewihr, the jewel of the Alsace vineyards.

2006 Dopff & Irion Riesling, Ch?teau de Riquewihr, abv 12%

Many of the wines of Alsace with their balance of fruit and acidity are ideal for summer. Gold yellow colour, the nose is fresh with peach aromas and slightly floral, refined and delicate. The palate is well balanced with a nice structure and body. Lemon, grapefruit and green apple flavours, and a hint of mineral. This is a Riesling with nice fruitiness and a good body that pairs well with seafood, raw fish, marinated fish, especially scallops, and poultry.

2006 Dopff & Irion Gew?rztraminer, Ch?teau de Riquewihr, abv 13%

This Gew?rztraminer varietal is stylish with enjoyable fruit. It has a pale yellow colour; the nose is typical and enjoyable with rose aromas and exotic fruit notes – a m?lange of pineapple, mango and lychee. Round and soft on the palate, this is a well-balanced wine without any heaviness that suits hot weather. Long and aromatic, it has a nice, clean freshness on the aftertaste.
A good aperitif, goes well with smoked salmon, smoked meat and certainly matches well with Oriental spicy cuisine. Try this wine also with blue cheese or Munster, generally with strong flavoured cheeses.

Venezie, Italy

What I love in the summer is a good dry ros?. When well made, this wine can stand up to grilled foods, and there is nothing prettier than a chilled glass of ros?. Light and fruity, fresh in the mouth and sometimes full-bodied.
The Paladin winery is situated in eastern Veneto, a strip of land between Veneto and Friuli, where the two regional cultures have melted together. Connoisseurs even know Paladin from Bosco del Merlo estate.

2008 Paladin Salbanello, Vino Rosato Frizzante, Annone Veneto I.G.T. abv 11%

Fresh, lively and easy-to-drink, this is a wine to be enjoyed on informal occasions. The second fermentation gives it an elegant, lingering and delicate perlage on the palate. Bright ros? with pinky hues, crisp with clear notes of red apple and delicate hints of red fruits – just pick strawberry, raspberry and red cherry. Fresh and round on the palate, the flavours of red fruit follow through, zingy and bright to the finish. It is an excellent summer wine for conversation on a hot summer night, a ticket for lunchtime drinking with cold dishes and barbecue chicken.

2007 Paladin Salbanello, Cabernet – Malbech, Annone, Veneto, I.G.T., abv 11.5%

This red comes from the Valentino Paladin Salbanello line. The delicate mellowness of Malbech and the rich body of Cabernet Sauvignon are brought together to create a wine of delightful drinkability. Bright, ruby red colour, the first impression on the nose is that it is vinous and fresh. Fruity, you can detect intense notes of blackcurrant, redcurrant and raspberry. The palate is velvety and well balanced with integrated tannins for a young red, light to medium body; flavours of juicy fruit follow on a good subtle finish. Try this with tasty snack and dishes of Mediterranean tradition, especially with pastas.


An exclusive oenogastronomic dinner prepared by Chef Martin Repetto and selected wines from La Maison du Vin will be held at the French Brasserie Messina at Elysium Hotel. Friday July 24 at 8pm. The event will be honoured by the presence of French Ambassador Nicolas Gale. The wine selection involves bottles from Champagne, Valle de Loire, Bourgogne and Bordeaux. €77 per person or combine this dining experience with accommodation at €95 per person in a double room including breakfast. Tel: 26 844444

(Source: Cyprus Mail)
Copyright © Cyprus Mail 2008 Please contact Cyprus Mail for the copyright terms of this article.

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